Bryan Horton's Basic Stew Hens 6 pounds of whole, uncooked stewing chicken (two small or one large) 2 medium onions, quartered 2 large stalks celery with leaves, or half a bulb celeriac (or substitute celery seeds) 2 large carrots, or 4 small ones, or a handful of carrot seedlings 2 bay leaves 1 teaspoon dried thyme or 2 long, leafy sprigs fresh thyme 10 peppercorns (or more) 1 teaspoon soy sauce (optional) Rinse hens inside and out with water. Place in a large stockpot with enough cold water to cover (it's OK if leg tips aren't completely submerged). Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer for 1 to 2 hours or until breast meat loosens from the bone. Skim foam from surface a few times. When meat is loose, lift chicken out of pot and let rest until cool enough to handle. Remove meat from bones, and refrigerate for later use. Return bones and skin to pot. Add remaining ingredients and return to simmer for a total cooking time of 3 1/2 to 4 hours. Horton recommends tasting the broth in the last hour to monitor its progress. There is a big difference in the blended flavors and richness of stock that has had full simmer and that which is cut short. When you're satisfied, strain into a wide bowl so that it will cool quickly. Refrigerate or freeze in 1-quart containers if not using immediately. I have found the yield to be a quart of stock for every pound of bird. This liquid gold can get locavores through the winter "localizing" dried legumes that many soups are built around and of course inviting stews, dumplings and hearty pasta casseroles. I find adding the de-boned meat at the last possible second to be best for flavor.
Stew Chickens As layer chickens age their egg production decreases. At around 20 months layers cost more to feed than the value of the eggs they provide. Culling laying hens is a necessary part of keeping a healthy and productive flock. Since older layers have had years of free-ranging around they require long, slow cooking in liquid to make the meat tender. The stock from stewing hens is exceptionally flavorful and nutritious due to their years of foraging grasses and insects.
Four and Twenty Blackbirds Baked in a Pie
Courtesy of Laura Sorkin
3 pound stew hen 1 white or yellow onion, chopped cooking oil bay leaf, sprigs of thyme one-third cup barley 6 white mushrooms, trimmed and quartered 2 large carrots, peeled and diced 1 leek, white part only, rinsed and sliced 1 shallot, peeled and chopped one-half cup sherry 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour parsley and dill packaged puff pastry Find a pot that can hold the entire bird comfortably (you may need to halve or quarter it). Put the bird in the pot with the chopped onion. Add a little oil to the pan and put on medium heat. Gently brown the bird and the onion for five to 10 minutes. Add bay leaf, thyme and enough water to cover the bird. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Keep the pot on a low simmer for two hours, adding more water as necessary to keep the chicken covered. After two hours, take a small sample of the meat to check for tenderness. If it is too tough, continue cooking and check every half hour until it reaches the desired consistency. When it is tender, turn off the heat, let cool a bit and strain over a colander into a big bowl. When the bird is cool enough, separate the meat from the bones and set aside. Also set aside the broth. Toss the bones and onion. In a small pot, add the barley and roughly one and a half cups water. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes or until just tender, drain and set aside. In a large pot, add a tablespoon of oil and heat. Add the mushrooms, carrots, leeks and shallots and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Saute over medium-high heat until they begin to lightly brown. Add the butter and flour — this will create a roux that will coat the vegetables. Cook for several minutes and then add a quart of the chicken broth, the sherry, chopped chicken meat and barley. Stir well and let simmer for 10 minutes. Check for seasonings and add more salt as desired. Add cornstarch if a thicker consistency is desired. Place the chicken mixture in a pie or casserole dish, but choose one in which the chicken comes up nearly to the top. Sprinkle fresh parsley and dill over the top. Remove the pastry from its package and gently place it over the rim of the dish and seal the edges down with your fingers. Cut a 2 inch hole in the middle to let steam escape. Put the dish in a preheated 400 degree oven and bake for approximately 20-30 minutes or until the pastry is browned and cooked through.
Courtesy of Laura Sorkin
3 pound stew hen 1 white or yellow onion, chopped cooking oil bay leaf, sprigs of thyme one-third cup barley 6 white mushrooms, trimmed and quartered 2 large carrots, peeled and diced 1 leek, white part only, rinsed and sliced 1 shallot, peeled and chopped one-half cup sherry 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour parsley and dill packaged puff pastry Find a pot that can hold the entire bird comfortably (you may need to halve or quarter it). Put the bird in the pot with the chopped onion. Add a little oil to the pan and put on medium heat. Gently brown the bird and the onion for five to 10 minutes. Add bay leaf, thyme and enough water to cover the bird. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer. Keep the pot on a low simmer for two hours, adding more water as necessary to keep the chicken covered. After two hours, take a small sample of the meat to check for tenderness. If it is too tough, continue cooking and check every half hour until it reaches the desired consistency. When it is tender, turn off the heat, let cool a bit and strain over a colander into a big bowl. When the bird is cool enough, separate the meat from the bones and set aside. Also set aside the broth. Toss the bones and onion. In a small pot, add the barley and roughly one and a half cups water. Bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cook for about 20 minutes or until just tender, drain and set aside. In a large pot, add a tablespoon of oil and heat. Add the mushrooms, carrots, leeks and shallots and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Saute over medium-high heat until they begin to lightly brown. Add the butter and flour — this will create a roux that will coat the vegetables. Cook for several minutes and then add a quart of the chicken broth, the sherry, chopped chicken meat and barley. Stir well and let simmer for 10 minutes. Check for seasonings and add more salt as desired. Add cornstarch if a thicker consistency is desired. Place the chicken mixture in a pie or casserole dish, but choose one in which the chicken comes up nearly to the top. Sprinkle fresh parsley and dill over the top. Remove the pastry from its package and gently place it over the rim of the dish and seal the edges down with your fingers. Cut a 2 inch hole in the middle to let steam escape. Put the dish in a preheated 400 degree oven and bake for approximately 20-30 minutes or until the pastry is browned and cooked through.